If you’re in England this August, you already know how dry it’s been over the last month with July being the driest on record. Over 70% of England officially in drought, and hosepipe bans spreading from one water company to the next. It’s easy to feel like the garden is a lost cause. It isn’t.

A Temporary Use Ban stops you using a hose or sprinkler, but watering cans, buckets, grey water and water butts are all still allowed. With a bit of triage you can keep the plants that matter alive, carry the vegetable plot into autumn, and come out the other side with a garden better prepared for the next dry summer.

Understand what your hosepipe ban actually allows

A Temporary Use Ban is narrower than it sounds. It usually restricts hoses, sprinklers and pressure washers, while still allowing watering cans, buckets, rainwater from water butts and grey water. Some companies also permit approved drip or seep irrigation because it wastes far less than a hose. The rules genuinely differ between water companies, so check your own ban’s wording before you assume.

The ban doesn’t stop the free stuff either: mulching, shading, weeding, and catching every drop of rain that falls on your roof.

Water the things that will die, not the things that will sulk

The most useful question in a drought is this: will this plant die permanently, or just look rough? Lawns go brown and recover. Mature shrubs sulk, drop leaves, and bounce back. Spend your water where the loss is permanent or the crop is at stake.

Newly planted trees and shrubs - their roots haven’t established, and a dry first summer can kill them outright. They come first.
Fruit trees, bushes and soft fruit - a few dry weeks can cost you next year’s crop, not just this year’s.
High-value crops in flower or fruiting - tomatoes, courgettes and French beans need steady moisture through flowering and pod set. Tomatoes in particular split and drop fruit if they dry out then get soaked.
Pots and containers - they dry out fastest of anything. Group them together so they shade each other.
Seedlings and anything recently transplanted - small rootballs can dry out in hours.

You can usually leave the lawn, mature shrubs and trees, established perennials, and any crop that’s already past its best. An exhausted courgette plant isn’t worth half a watering can a day.

Make every litre count

Time it. Water early morning or late evening. On a hot day, a midday can of water mostly evaporates before it reaches the roots.
Water the root zone, not the leaves. One deep soak every few days beats a light sprinkle every evening. Deep watering encourages roots to grow down, where the soil stays cooler and moister.
Mulch heavily. A 5–7 cm layer of compost, bark, straw or grass clippings around plants slows evaporation dramatically. Water first, then mulch, so the moisture is locked in underneath.
Group pots and move them into shade for the hottest part of the day. Shading can cut a container’s water need in half.
Reuse grey water. Cooled bath, shower and washing-up water is fine on established plants. For edible leaves and roots, be more cautious about chemicals, and don’t store grey water long enough for it to turn. Cooled pasta or vegetable cooking water is basically free feed.
Collect every drop. Put water butts under every downpipe, a bucket in the shower while it warms up, and a bowl on the kitchen windowsill. It all adds up.
Keep beds weed-free. Weeds compete with your crops for the same water. Hoeing dry soil also leaves a loose dust layer that slows further evaporation.
If your ban allows a drip system, use it. Drip lines put water exactly where it’s needed, with almost nothing lost to wind or evaporation.

Protect the plants you already have

Raise the mower height and mow less often. Longer grass shades its own roots, and leave the clippings on the lawn to return moisture and nutrients.
Stop feeding and stop hard pruning while the heat lasts. Both push soft new growth that needs the most water.
Don’t dig for the sake of it. Turning soil over in a heatwave exposes moisture to the air.
Shade vulnerable plants. Fleece, netting, or a piece of cardboard propped over lettuces and new transplants during the hottest hours stops bolting and scorch.
Learn to read wilting. A plant that flops at four in the afternoon and stands back up by morning is fine — that’s normal heat stress. Don’t panic-water it. A plant that’s still flat and crispy the next morning, or whose stems have collapsed, is past saving. A perennial that drops all its leaves may still reshoot in autumn, so shade it and give it a chance rather than digging it out.

What to plant now (and what to wait on)

Honest answer first: in a drought, sowing seed is a gamble. Germination needs steady moisture, and that means using precious water. Unless you can keep a seedbed damp with a watering can, it’s usually better to hold off.

If you can water, August still has a few sensible options. Fast, cool-season crops such as pak choi and mooli arethe best bets - they can give you a useful autumn harvest without needing a long, thirsty growing season. Treat anything more delicate (including coriander and dill) as a small experiment only.

Don’t start new tomatoes, courgettes or other tender crops now — their window has passed for most of the UK. And don’t plant new trees or shrubs into bone-dry ground. Prep the holes now and plant in autumn once the soil has some moisture again.

For the full list of what you can still sow in August (and what to leave until later), see our dedicated guide: What to Sow in August.

Build for the next drought

Treat 2026 as the wake-up call it is. Three changes make the biggest difference:

Build soil organic matter. Compost, well-rotted manure and leaf mould turn soil into a sponge. Mulching does double duty here, feeding the soil as it saves water.
Choose tougher plants. In the driest beds, grow things that shrug off heat — Mediterranean herbs, drought-tolerant perennials, and vegetables that cope with less water once established.
Plan water storage and layout. More (and bigger) water butts, simple guttering to feed them, thirsty plants grouped in one area so you water one patch instead of the whole plot, and less lawn to keep green.

Your drought survival checklist

Read your water company’s ban rules and know what’s allowed.
Water only the priority list: new plantings, fruit, soft fruit, containers, and crops in flower or fruiting.
Water early or late, at the root, deeply, and not the leaves.
Mulch everything you water, and water before you mulch.
Group pots, move them into shade, reuse grey water, and catch every drop of rain.
Raise the mower, stop feeding, stop hard pruning, and don’t dig unnecessarily.
Sow only fast, season-right crops such as pak choi and mooli, and keep seedbeds damp. Skip everything else.
Wait until autumn to plant trees, shrubs and fruit. Prep the holes now.
Check the site’s localised planting windows for your area before you sow anything.

A hosepipe ban is a nuisance, not a death sentence for your garden. Water the things that matter, keep the soil covered, and let the lawn go golden. Come October, when the rain returns and the autumn planting window opens, the garden will thank you for it.

UK Drought 2026: How to Keep Your Garden Alive (Even With Hosepipe Bans)