
Dahlia pinnata
Show-stopping tuberous perennials that provide a spectacular display of colour from mid-summer right up until the first frosts. Ranging from enormous 'dinner plate' blooms to intricate pompoms and open-centred varieties that bees adore, they are a staple of the late summer UK garden.
Step-by-step instructions for growing Dahlia
Change the guide to see different planting timelines and tips.
The most reliable method for UK gardeners. Starting tubers in pots under cover gives them a head start and protects the tender new shoots from slugs and late frosts.
About 6 weeks before the last frost, fill a pot halfway with peat-free multi-purpose compost. Place the tuber in the pot with the old stalk stump facing up. Fill with more compost, ensuring the crown (where the old stem joins the roots) is just below the surface. Water lightly and place in a frost-free greenhouse or sunny windowsill.
Once the new shoots have formed about 3 to 4 pairs of leaves, pinch out the growing tip just above a pair of leaves. This encourages the plant to become bushier and produce more flowers, rather than one tall, spindly stem.
Before moving them permanently outside, acclimate your dahlias to outdoor conditions. Move them outside during the day in a sheltered spot and bring them back in at night. Do this for 7-10 days to toughen up the foliage.
Once all risk of frost has passed in Woodhouse Down (usually late May to early June), plant your dahlias into their final positions. Dig a hole and plant the entire rootball so the top is level with the soil surface. Space plants apart. Insert a sturdy stake now to avoid damaging roots later.
Tie the main stem to your stake using soft twine. This is also the critical time to apply slug protection, as slugs love young dahlia shoots. A barrier of wool pellets or organic slug control is highly recommended.
Dahlias are hungry plants. Once flowers appear, apply a high-potash liquid feed (like tomato fertiliser) every two weeks. Water thoroughly once a week during dry spells, aiming at the base of the plant.
Cut flowers regularly for the vase to enjoy indoors—this actually stimulates more blooms! For garden display, remove spent flower heads (the pointed ones; round buds are new flowers) to extend the flowering season right up to the first frost.
Once the first frosts have blackened the foliage, it's time to lift the tubers for winter storage. Cut the stems down to , carefully dig up the clump, remove excess soil, and dry them upside down for a few weeks before storing in a cool, frost-free place in sand or vermiculite.